For the second of her two Fall/Winter 2013 collections, 24-year old Eilish Macintosh incorporates patent leather, PVC, and rope-stitched seams, drawing inspiration from sportswear, sports equipment, and ’50s couture. The collection by this recent Central Saint Martins graduate is surprisingly modern and brilliantly refreshing, and we weren’t the first to notice. Earlier this year, the Paris-based Scot, who has worked at John Galliano and DVF, was awarded the prestigious L’Oréal Professional Creative Award.
Hiromichi Ochiai, the 35-year-old designer behind Tokyo label FACETASM, says he tried to create a sense of balance in his newest collection by blending classic designs, colors, and textiles with a healthy dose of street style—think lace embroidered graffiti motifs, such as the hibiscus pattern designed by ’80s street artist NESM. “I tried to evoke a new sensibility by integrating the ‘new and old’ idea into the Facetasm -esque feeling and flavor,” the Bunka Fashion College graduate says.
Born and raised in Tokyo, Kunihiko Morinaga, the 33-year-old designer behind Anrealage, offers a skeletal vision of the future with his bone-inspired Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Using a laser cutter, Morinaga removed all excess materials from his pieces, leaving, as he puts it, “minimal structure lines.” The effect is bold: tops, dresses, and even socks stripped to their cores. Beauty, Anrealage suggests, is more than skin deep.
Born in Hiroshima, Japan, designer Koji Maruyama studied at Central Saint Martins before relocating to his current residence in Bali, Indonesia, and launching KTZ, or Kokon to Zai. With Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski—the man responsible for Björk’s iconic swan dress—acting as creative director, KTZ’s latest menswear offerings are heavily patterned but stark, chiaroscuro creations inspired by tribal tattoos and wild animism.
Twenty-three-year-old Ryan Lo is specific about the inspiration behind his Fall/Winter 2013 collection. “It’s about the girlish, unfulfilled hopes of a career-driven single gal, inspired by the part-tragic characters of Bridget Jones and Ally McBeal,” the Hong Kong–born Londoner says. Incorporating iridescent and patterned organza, polka dot lamé, and tulle—Lo’s material of choice—the collection doesn’t shy from the feminine. “From day to night, the Ryan Lo girl is dreaming and yearning for her one true love, while working hard at her office day job,” he says. “She wants it all and she means business in two-piece skirt suits, pussy bow blouses, and robe coats—all run through a deliciously saccharine filter.”
To help herself maintain a coherent vision for her Fall/ Winter 2013 collection, London-bred designer Sadie Williams jotted down a list of keywords to keep in mind while she worked: totemic, elegant, boyish, and Cardin. But the major inspiration for the recent Central Saint Martins graduate was “old-fashioned bikers on their Harley-Davidsons.” The resulting collection inhabits a place of contradiction—elegant but strong, modern yet timeless. Of the signature metallic fabrics that breathe life into her pieces, the 26-year-old designer says, “I loved them immediately upon first seeing them. I’m always inspired by fabrics.”